These instructions are written for replacing stock Mustang II control arms.

• Some welding and fabrication required
• Alignment required
• Torque wrench required
• Coil spring compressor tool required
• Designed to mount in factory location
• Accepts factory style shocks
• Eliminates strut arm

Tear Down

1. Jack up vehicle and place on jack stands
2. Set emergency brake and use wheel chocks
3. Remove wheels and lug nuts
4. Remove caliper and brake hose and tie caliper out of the way. (Do not let caliper hang by the hose.)
5. Remove rotor
6. Install coil spring compressor and collapse spring
7. Disconnect shock
8. Remove shock and compressed spring together
9. Remove spindle and caliper bracket
10. Inspect tie rods, replace as necessary
11. Remove factory strut arms if present

Upper control arm removal

1. Clean cross member mounting surface around upper A arm cross shafts.
2. Scribe the locations of the control arm shafts and then remove them.
3. Count the alignment shiims and note their location for reassembly. Once off tape together and label.
4. Remove control arms.
5. Retain special T bolts and nuts.

Lower control arm removal

1. Remove lower control arm.
2. Inspect cross member mounting area. Repair any damage. Wire brush and degrease the cross member thoroughly.

Cross member reinforcement-welding required

1. Insert the long mounting bolts into the cross member and insert the spacers into their final positions. Do not mount the control arm at this time since welding will damage the bushings. Do not secure the shaft with the nylon lock nut since welding would damage it.
2. Weld the rear spacer onto the back side of the cross member centered over the mounting hole. Weld all around the circumference of the spacer.
3. Next, you will need to reinforce the 3.25” spacer by welding a gusset (not included) along the length of the rear spacer. The gusset is to mount horizontally like the wing of an airplane. Position it so it will be welded horizontally against the cross member. Weld all along the length of the gusset to insure maximum strength. Inspect all welds.
4. Allow time for welds to cool.

Lower control arm installation

1. Remove the mounting bolt and bushings from the new control arm.
2. Attach the lower control arm with the mounting bolts, spacers and washers.
3. Insert the long bolt through the two mounting holes on the cross member. ( NOTE: It may be necessary to drill the holes out to 5/8")
4. Mount the lower control arm using the cross member spacers and hand tighten the nuts. Verify spacer lengths and positions. Familiarize yourself with all components and then remove control arms.

Upper control arm installation

1. Using the special T bolts, mount the new upper control arm with the knurled surface facing the cross member. (The knurled surface must be seated on a clean, paint free cross member so the knurled surface can grip the mounting surface).
2. Mount these into the positions you scored & re-install alignment shims into their original location for step 3.
3. The T bolts come from underneath so the nuts ride on top of the cross-shafts.
4. Tighten T bolts to 80-90 ft. lbs. of torque.
5. Tighten cross-shaft nuts to 65-75 ft. lbs. of torque.

Spring and shock insertion & final assembly

1. Whether you are using old or new shocks, verify that the new shock mounting bolt from the new control arm fits through the eyelet end of the shock. Inspect the bushing, replace if necessary.
2. If using new shocks, leave the wire shock used to compress the shock in place for now.
3. If using and old shock, it would be helpful to fashion a shock compressor from wire and collapse the shock for ease of installation.
4. Install coil spring, with compressor still installed onto lower control arm and mount the bottom of the shock using the bolt provided. Torque to 40-55 ft. lbs.
5. Mount the spindle to the lower control arm and torque the lower ball joint nut to 90ft. lbs.
6. Using a hydraulic jack, gradually raise the lower control arm and attach the upper ball joint into the top of the spindle.
7. Position the shock into its’ mounting hole and release tension from the wire compressing the shock. Install the shock bushings, washer and nut. Torque to 14-26 ft. lbs.
8. Release the coil from the spring compressor and guide it into position as you do.
9. Slowly release the hydraulic jack.
10. You should now have the upper and lower control arms, the coil spring and shock absorber installed.
11. Tighten the castellated upper ball joint nuts onto the spindle and set them to 60ft. lbs of torque. Attach tie rod ends, torque to 35-47 ft. lbs.
12. Install cotter pins.
13. Grease upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends and the control arm bushings using a grease gun.
14. Re-pack bearings and install the rotors, bearings, grease seals, spindle washers, spindle nuts and cotter pins.

Wheel bearing torque sequence

1. While spinning the wheel forward, torque wheel nut to 17-25 ft. lbs. Back off 1⁄2 turn.
2. Torque spindle nut to 10-15 INCH lbs. (finger tight) and install cotter pin cage and pin.
3. Check rotor spin.

Caliper and wheel installation final check

1. Install caliper brackets. Torque to 35 ft. lbs.
2. Install caliper, Torque to 35 ft. lbs.
3. Inspect brake hose. Torque 12-20 ft. lbs.
4. Install and torque down wheels and lug nuts.
5. After the car has been lowered, bounce the front end to center the bushings, and the torque the upper control arm to 120-180 ft. lbs.
6. Check for binds and loose bolts before driving the car.
7. Test the brakes. Check tire pressure.
8. Check tire wear.
9. Get an alignment.